butter to bones

A rainbow in the dark.

The beginning of the cold (relatively if you live outside of a temperate climate like California) months is the time change. Daylight turns into darkness much sooner. The dark is partnered with a chill that lingers well past the morning hours.

It is Bittersweet November. The stagnant, mellow, leaf-kicking, perfect pause between the unbridled jazz of summer and yearly rebirth in winter. If spring is birth and summer is life then autumn is a season of reflection.

My mind races a lot this time of year. Perhaps it is because of the shorter days, and the feeling of not enough time to spend outside. Every now and then, I come to the realization that here are just too many darn distractions and conveniences that seem to cheapen life, and promote a sort of passive, cathartic state of being.

Every moment that I hit ‘Refresh’ on my e-mail, turn up the television or palm my cell phone, I could be outside and enjoying all of the new colors that are being displayed everywhere.

While walking my dog in the hills around my home recently, we came across a bush that seriously resembled cranberries (though lack a bog in which they grow). This was truly a ruby in a landscape of brown and enveloping fog. It served as nice reminder that there are some simple comforts to take hold of, surely relevant to the season.

Serious chilly weather and rain calls for some serious comfort food. When settling in for the evening, there’s nothing like a having a full belly, and few dishes satisfy more then Shepherd’s Pie.

Adding dark ale to the pool

The preparation is quite simple, and because of this, the quality of the ingredients really make a difference. Good quality ground lamb or beef, especially grass-fed (at only a few dollars more), has a different flavor then the typical packages you’ll find at the grocery store. It can be described as slightly gamier, earthy and overall richer. I prefer 80/20 (lean/fat) as, of course, fat equals flavor.

Shepherd’s Pie with Ale
inspired by”The Homebrew Chef” Sean Z. Paxton

1      Stick      unsalted butter
2     Tbsp.     olive oil
2     Each      yellow onions, peeled and chopped
3     Each      carrots, peeled and chopped
2     Each      celery ribs, chopped
1      Each      leek, white and green part only, sliced
5     Pounds  ground lamb or beef
4     Cloves    garlic, peeled and minced
2     Tbsp.      Italian leaf parsley, fresh, chopped fine
2     Tbsp.      thyme, fresh, chopped fine
12    Oz.         dark ale; I prefer Walker’s Reserve Porter from Firestone Walker
4      Cups      beef (preferable) or chicken stock                                                                                2      Tbsp.     tomato paste                                                                                                                                               sea salt and crack black pepper, to taste
1       Recipe  mixed root vegetable puree (6 pounds root vegetables mashed with 1 stick of                          butter and 1 cup of cream, seasoned with salt and black pepper)
2      Cups     Goat Gouda or Aged Cheddar, grated

Preheat oven to 350°.

In a large pot over medium heat, add butter and olive oil.  Once the butter has melted, add onions, carrots, celery and leeks, seasoning with salt and pepper.  Cook until the vegetables become translucent, about 5 minutes.  Remove the cooked vegetables to a bowl, reserving as much of the butter/oil in the pan as possible.

Add half of the ground lamb (or beef) in to the pan and brown evenly , until most of the liquid has evaporated, about 6-7 minutes.  Repeat with remaining meat. Add the garlic, parsley and thyme to the meat as it finishes browning and cook for another 2 minutes.  Deglaze the pan with the ale, using a spoon to scrape off any brown bits stuck to the pan and reduce by half.

Add the reserved vegetables and first batch of meat back into the pan, topping off with chicken stock .  Bring to a boil and reduce until the liquid has almost completely evaporated and reduced, leaving you with a thick, rich filling. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Pour this mixture into a large (about 9×13) pan and spread into one even layer. Add the root vegetable puree to the top of the meat mixture. Top with the grated cheese and season generously with salt and pepper.

Place the Shepherd’s Pie in the center of the oven for 30-45 minutes or until the cheese has melted and starting to turn a golden brown color. Remove from the oven and let cool for about 15 minutes before serving.

Your stomach will thank you!

I am jittery enough without dosing with caffeine, so although I do enjoy a nice cup of tea (yerba mate, please), coffee or chocolate on occasion, it’s not part of my everyday diet. Splurging on one of these every now and then makes the experience that much more enjoyable. It has now become a Saturday morning ritual to wake up around 8 a.m. (a nice departure from my usual 5am wake-up time for work…ugh) and make a French press of rich coffee. I usually stick to just one cup, as that is more than enough to add a big kick to my step for the rest of the day without crashing too hard later.

Quality ingredients are the key here

Sorbet is one thing I really enjoy about summer. It is lighter then ice cream, yet packs the intense essence of the main ingredient. Yesterday I bought a few different types of chocolate (bittersweet, semi-sweet and milk) to have on hand to do some chocolate work this week. Combining leftover strong coffee with cocoa powder and sugar in a saucepan takes only a few minutes. It’s then enriched by even more chocolate, this time in solid form.

Coffee and cocoa powder are combined in the saucepan

Once the chocolate melts, stir in the rest of the liquid and toss the mix into a blender. If you taste it before freezing, the coffee flavor isn’t overwhelming. Give it a spin for a creamy texture absent of lumpy chocolate. After the sorbet sets up in the freezer, you’ll find yourself with a velvety and intensely chocolate treat.

I had the recipe bookmarked for a while, but when I finally set out to make the sorbet a few days ago, I noticed a recipe for a mocha sherbet on the same page. The sherbet called for dairy, but I wasn’t having any of that. I decided to add a caffeinated twist to the sorbet by replacing the water with espresso. Use Dutch-process cocoa as it is smoother with a more pleasant finish on the tongue.

Again, the great part about chocolate sorbet is that because it’s a non-dairy frozen sweet that tastes super indulgent without all of the sins of ice cream.

Smoooothe and sinful

Espresso Chocolate Sorbet
slightly modified from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz

2 1/4 cups (555 ml) espresso or strong coffee
1 cup (200 g) sugar
3/4 cup (75 g) unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
pinch of salt
6 oz (170 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/2 tsp vanilla extract

Combine 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) of the coffee, the sugar, cocoa powder, and salt in a large saucepan (large because it bubbles up during boiling). Bring to boil, whisking frequently. Let it boil for about 45 seconds then remove from heat. Stir in the chocolate until melted. Then add the vanilla extract and remaining 3/4 cup of coffee. Pour the mixture into a blender and blend for 15 seconds. Let the liquid cool completely, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

It’s been a busy past 2 weeks, and I’m now getting some much needed free time to catch-up on some updates.

Two weekends ago, my good friend Therese joined me for an overnight celebration of delicious Thai food and the creation of the perfect marriage of sweet and salty…Chocolate-Dipped Bacon. Yes, read that right. Here’s how it goes:

You'll need one pound of cooked bacon, semi-sweet and milk chocolate, and course sea salt.

The quality of the bacon makes a difference here. The thicker the cut, the better it’ll hold its shape while dipping.

The chocolate is chopped.

About 10 oz. of semi-sweet chocolate and 2 oz. of milk chocolate will do. Go for the real stuff (without added corn syrup).

Melt the chocolate in a double boiler ( a sturdy bowl perched atop a pot of simmering water)

At this point, it’s quite difficult to resist the urge to down a few pieces. But go ahead and do it. Good quality chocolate simply begs to be nibbled at with a vengence.

Dip with one hand and finish coating with a spatula with the other.

Place each piece of dipped bacon on a baking sheet lined with parchment or wax paper. When finished, top with sea salt and stick the tray in the freezer for about 5 minutes, until the chocolate has set. The waiting at this point is the worst part of the whole process.

Lo and behold....a strange, sweet and salty piece of kick-you-in-the-teeth goodness that may cause you to start thinking of what else can be dipped in chocolate...

Another post in a few hours coming soon. In the meantime, go out and buy some chocolate and bacon! It’ll beat any Snickers bar any day. Promise!

For my sourdough starter, I will be following the instructions from this post on Wild Yeast Blog.

Ingredients:

• White flour (bread or all-purpose), preferably one that contains malted barley flour. Most white flours do, but some do not, especially if they are organic. Check the label.
• Rye flour.
• Water. I use bottled (not distilled) water because I don’t want the chlorine in tap water, and I do want the minerals that are removed by my water softener. If your tap water is not softened, you could let some sit out for a few hours to allow the chlorine to dissipate. All the water should be at about 85F; the yeast you want to nurture likes warmish water. I heat a small amount of water in the microwave and mix it with room temperature water, checking it with an instant-read thermometer. If you don’t have one, the water should feel about neutral to the touch.

Rye and white (unbleached) flour

Equipment:

• A 1-quart or larger container with a lid, preferably transparent and with straight vertical sides (this makes it easier to gauge the activity of the culture).
• A kitchen scale. If you don’t have one, get one. In the meantime, I’ll give the approximate volume measurements. But just this once; really, weigh your ingredients! (I never said I wasn’t opinionated.)
• An instant-read thermometer is useful for checking water temperature.
• A rubber spatula or plastic dough scraper.
• Transparent tape.
• A way to heat water.
• A warm(ish) place, preferably around 80°F. The room I used fluctuated from low 70’s to mid 80’s. A room thermometer is helpful.

Day 1, PM:

At 4:15 pm, the ambient temperature was 76°F. Trust me, the temperature makes all the difference when it comes to yeast health (you could say they are warm-blooded and like to be comfortable).

• Before mixing the ingredients together, I marked the weight of the container on a piece of tape stuck to the bottom for future reference (this will come in handy later on when removing a portion of the starter and feeding it with more flour/water).
• The first step was to thoroughly clean and dry the container.
• 100 grams of room temperature water (between 70 -80°F) was mixed with 50 g. rye flour and 50 g. white flour (or 1/2 c. water and 3/8 c. of each flour.
• I marked with a piece of tape where the culture started from in the container in order to measure its growth.
• The culture was placed in the kitchen, the warmest room in my house, with the lid slightly ajar.

The flour and water are combined

The starter will be quite thick and sticky...this is fine.

In about 24 hours, there should be some signs of activity, consisting of small bubbles and up to a 25-50% rise. Time for one more pint of a malty Brown Ale a good night’s rest. I’ll check in tomorrow to see if The Rising has begun.

Cheers!

Tri-color Sage

Thyme

…make herb butter.

You'll need one stick (1/2 cup) of unsalted butter, along with a a few sprigs of fresh herbs (about 1/2 oz. each, whole, and 1 tsp. each, finely chopped). Right now, my garden says thyme and sage.

Try adding a bit of citrus zest, especially lemon, which really makes the starring herbs pop with a brighter flavor.

In a small saucepot over low heat, melt the butter and let the herbs steep for 1 hour.

Strain the butter of the herbs through cheesecloth or a fine strainer. Place in the refrigerator and allow to solidify about 50%, so it is just soft and spreadable.

Fold in 1 tsp. each of the same herbs, chopped, along with 1/4 tsp. each of salt and freshly cracked black pepper

The butter can now be left as is, or rolled into a log with a sheet of plastic wrap.

It will keep well, refrigerated, for about 7 days, or tightly wrapped and frozen for up to 1 month. Slice and use to top a grilled steak, finish a delicate pan sauce or simply spread onto a piece of toasted baguette.

As autumn arrives, so does my hunger for heartier meals and more fuller-bodied beers then the crisp, refreshing lagers of summer. The intoxicating aromatics of sage truly signify Fall as I now sit with a glass of tea, write and make preparations to brew a few different beers this coming weekend.

Summer still has a few hot days up it’s sleeves, and the transition to a new season is more than just gradually shorter days and chilly mornings. While tank tops and shorts are being replaced by jeans and parkas, my tomato plants are making their final sprint to produce these red and orange-striped beauties.

Edible rubies

A major highlight of this summer has been the abundance of fresh chilies in both my own home garden and at the local farmer’s markets. Thai birds, jalapenos and poblanos; anaheims, habaneros and bells. Every size, shape and heat level is unique, these devilish fruits have a special place in my heart. Not only do they compliment the seasonally hot weather here in North San Luis Obispo County, but chilies are an integral part of one of my favorite types of cuisine: Thai.

It has only been in the past few years that I have been drawn to the fiery dishes of Southeast Asia. The perfect balance of sweet, salty, sour and spicy that defines the Thai flavor palette really took my mouth on a psychedelic trip at first bite.

A weekend's worth of reading

Curries are eaten and enjoyed throughout the world, but are considered native to India, Pakistan and Sotheast Asia. There are many theories about the origin of the word “curry.” Two of the most tenaciously held are that the word derives from the Tamil kari, for sauce, or that it stems from the name of the wok-like metal implement in which curries are cooked in India, a karahi. It does seem, though, as if the British helped evolved the word to its present spelling and pronunciation.

There seem to be many misconceptions about curries in general that it seems  a worthy exercise to attempt to define the term. Curry is a fashion of cooking: a process whereby meats, fish, vegetables and even fruits are cooked in a ground mixture of spices, herbs and chilies, known as curry paste, to produce a fragrant and often fiery stew-like dish. Not all dishes that are spicy and hot are considered curries. Furthermore, “curry powder” sold in markets are merely a blend of a few Indian spices best applied to the flavorings of curry dips and dishes where a hint of curry influence is desired.

In Thailand, the word Gaeng, liquid, is used to define curries and soups but, mainly, curries. The suffix ped means hot to the taste in the incendiary sense and Thai curries,  practically by definition, are just that! The liquid, gaeng, in which they are cooked is usually composed of coconut milk with spices. As they are always eaten over large mounds of steamed rice, few solids suffice and the flavor of the spicy, highly-flavored grave is extended by the rice.

The types of spices in Thai curry pastes are the most distinctive feature of their currries. A curry paste, Krung Gaeng, of any variety should be a marvelous, aromatic mixture of freshly ground herbs and spices. Each dish dictates a particular combination that will best compliment the solid ingredients.

Green curry paste is a variety that I have been preparing again and again as it has been a great use for my small production of jalapenos. It is one of the hottest Thai curry pastes from the use of fresh green chilies, and is a breeze to put together. The list of ingredients may seem a bit overwhelming, but it is really no more than a few items that are found right in the produce section of your local market.

The first two spices, whole cumin and coriander seeds, are toasted in a pan over medium heat just until they begin to release their perfume.

A pleasant assault on the nose

The toasted spices are ground and combined with the rest

Since everything will be processed together, there is no need to finely chop each ingredient. Getting everything together in one spot (mise en place) ahead of time makes cooking a lot more enjoyable.

Everything prepped and ready for blending

Traditionally, a large mortar and pestal are used to ground all of the ingredients together. If you have one large enough to hold everything with extra space to spare, there is something very viscerally satisfying about pounding the heck out of raw ingredients and getting a whiff when they start releasing their natural oils. On the side of convenience, I often use a blender, which makes this task quick and efficient.

Going for a spin in the blender

Beautiful green curry paste

Thai Green Curry Paste

• 1 tsp each whole coriander and cumin
• 1 tsp Garam Masala (Indian spice blend)
• 1 tsp ground black pepper
• 1 tsp dry or 1 stalk fresh lemongrass
• 1 tbsp brown or palm sugar
• 1 lime, zest and juice
• 1 1-inch piece of ginger (about 1 tbsp minced)
• 6 garlic cloves
• 4 jalapenos, seeds and membrane removed (left in if you prefer more heat)
• 2 green onions
• 1/2 cup cilantro
• 1/4 cup basil
• 1 tbsp fish sauce
• 3 tbsp vegetable oil

Toast the coriander and cumin in a pan over medium heat until fragrant. Remove from heat and finely ground in a spice/coffee ( grinder. Transfer all ingredients to a blender, food proccessor or mortar and blend until smooth.  Use as needed, adding a few tablespoons to coconut milk for Green Curry, stir frys, noodle dishes and as a marinade for chicken and pork. The curry paste will keep for about a week, tightly sealed, in the refrigerator.

Makes 1 cup.